Continental Divide, Tunnels, and Tri-Athletes

Dear friends and family,

I am enjoying a day off from riding today. I was due for a day off two days ago after six days straight riding, but saw the weather forecast for hard rain and wind today, two days later, so opted to postpone my break,

Now the rain is here, with wind gusts forecasted to be up to 40 mph, and a saturated trail, so I get to drink coffee, read and write.

The last two days, with my legs needing a rest, I got to ride uphill from Cumberland to the continental divide. The slope was just under two percent, but with tired legs and a packed bike had me working pretty hard. The good news was that I felt quite strong and handled the climb well. And once over the divide I felt like I was flying as it turned downhill, with less grade, but still down. A heavy bike sure coasts well once it gets moving.

I now realize that most riders book their lodging well in advance as I am finding slim pickings for places to stay. In this B and B, a tiny room with a tiny bed was available with no shower and a shared toilet. I decided to stay over so the next night a regular room was free, so grabbed that and hang out and read and write while it rains over an inch and my legs can recover.

Just after I arrived last night a whole group of riders showed up at once to take over the remaining rooms of this place and another down the road. They are all members of a tri- athlete club from Pittsburgh. They ride with no loads on their bikes and a sag wagon to support them so they can cover great distances per day.

As soon as they arrived they invited me to join them at the other B and B for a pizza party, so I joined. What a pleasure to hang with these athletic people, mostly women in their sixties. We spent the entire evening discussing adventures, fitness ideas, and our life choices. Thanks all of you for the lovely evening!

They left this morning into the rain and wind and I ALMOST was tempted to want to ride as well, but frankly, a recovery day high and dry sounds more appealing.

I’ve noticed on this second trail, called the GREAT ALLEGHENY PASSAGE or the GAP for short, the majority of riders are on fat tire e-bikes. Not sure why the difference. This trail is on an abandoned railway from Cumberland into Pittsburgh, crossing the Mason-Dixon Line and the eastern continental divide. It offers big views of the valleys below and branches of various rivers running now towards Pittsburgh.

Often it is covered with the yellow leaves and the sound of the crunching under my tires is enjoyable. 

Very few coniferous trees so multi- colored leaves this time of year. And a different smell. The smell of the rotting leaves and sticks of the Cottonwood trees have a special smell from my youth in Cleveland. A big cottonwood tree served as  first base in our backyard ball diamond and if you made it safely to first you inhaled the tree scent. So, I feel like a made at least a base hit yesterday on the ride.

I am meeting a lot of people on the trail and it’s fun to share stories. It is what adds to making this bike touring so darn enjoyable.

Both the C and O trail that I just finished and the GAP trail, which I am on now are very popular, drawing 4-5 million visitors and over 1 million visitors per year, respectively. And yet, this time of year I can ride big stretches and be alone, so it doesn’t seem crowded.

Sending love,

Charley