Dear friends and family,
Today I am at my northernmost destination for this season, which is Dundas Bay, officially part of the Glacier Bay National Park, but permit free. As you can see by the pictures, it offers some great views of the surrounding mountains, but I find it interesting that there are NO, as in NO other boats anywhere inside this huge expanse. I guess it’s not a bucket list destination and it does have a lot less wildlife, but what it does have is serenity. I just got back from a long rowing excursion over the light green water of glacial outflow. If you like remote, this sure is it. And I do.
Speaking of glaciers, the glacier which is now a little ways up the river is called the Brady glacier. It used to reach way down into the bay where I am anchored less than 150 years ago. How do we know? John Muir, the glacier studier from Yosemite, was here and described it in his book Stickeen. Stickeen was the dog who hiked across the glacier with him and if you love dogs and haven’t read this account yet, you should be ashamed of yourself. I only read it a couple of years ago, so I share the shame😁.
I stopped in Hoonah, a Native American village across Icy Strait for a couple of days to fuel up, restock fresh food and enjoy a beer, a chocolate shake, and a cheesy pretzel. Yes, the same night later I was internally reminded that this combination wasn’t a good idea, oh how quickly we forget!
One of my favorite stops on the way north was at Tenakee Hot Springs. Had the guest dock all to myself, the natural “spa” ( those who know it are smiling for sure) to myself and was the only customer in the little general store. The spa comprises a building built around the rocky outlet of the natural spring. No clothes allowed. Alternate times for men and women.
At the general store I walked in with my yellow shirt, carrying my reflective yellow waterproof pack, checked the time on my yellow watch, and put my two items on the counter. The woman checking me out remarked about my yellow phone cover and asked ” Are you only allowed to buy yellow things?”making me look at my items and surprise myself in agreement. See picture and it becomes clear.((
But the real highlight of Tenakee was meeting up with Anke and Dave, the couple who lives there on their boat at the marina. I am comfortable using their names as they have been featured in a video series and also published a book about their lifestyle.
They inspire me to live closer to the land as they enjoy a very close land and water relationship while living and traveling Southeast in their present two boats. As they age, they think that the big boat might be too big and the small a bit too small for a retirement boat so here comes Goldilocks, a boat sized in between under construction and nearly done. These are all home built boats, very simple and yet very cleverly done. See pics.
They invited me to dinner and we realized that we may have met in 1994 when they built a boat in Port Townsend in the ” funky boatyard” which is also where Jim Westall started Skookum, the nonprofit that I stayed involved with for 30 years. Small world- boats.
That’s enough for now.
Sending love,
Charley
Cool to be in nature like you are
Love that,
Gerbander
Thanks for sharing Charley. I love your posts!
Some great locations, beautiful solitude!
Wonderful post Charley! Made me laugh. Best always.
What a great trip. Tenakee hot springs is a fun place to visit. Hoonah has a road system that is fun to explore. I love reading about your adventures
💛🍌🍋🌽🔅🏵🌼🚕😉
Thank you for your words